Even before the invention of shears in the iron age, wool was popular for use in clothing and fabrics. This is probably because wool has always been relatively easy to come by, thanks to sheep, goats and similar animals. The use of wool in coats, jackets and other types of clothing looms through history, back as far as you care to explore: the Babylonians were famous for their wool, they even graded it for quality; the Romans paired it with leather in many garments; the Greeks perfected the art of making fine wool material; the Danes made wool cloth – the oldest sample of which was preserved in a bog, dated to 1500BC.
English wool was in high demand during the Middle Ages – the production of British wool reached its peak during the 18th century, when the country had over 300 laws regulating all facets of the sheep-raising industry. And today, wool is still used to make a multitude of garments – including coats and jackets for men, women and children of all sizes. Wool is an ideal fabric for jacket making, because of it’s amazing natural properties. The material is water repellent, fire resistant, incredibly flexible, breathable and has insulating properties second to none – though there have been huge strides in the fabrication of synthetic fibres, nothing comes close to natural wool.
Perhaps the most iconic wool jacket is the duffle coat – a heavy, winter coat made from thick wool produced in Duffel, a province of Antwerp, Belgium. In the UK, duffel coats were popularised because of their use by the Royal Navy – sailors were often issued a tan duffel coat among their other clothing during World War II. Duffel coats are typically three-quarter length and feature a hood, four front fasteners comprised of wooden toggles and leather loops and two large pockets with flaps. Today, duffel coats take a number of different shapes, but in general, they stick to the classic format.
Another well-known wool jacket is known as ‘the Norfolk jacket’ – popularised by the Prince of Wales and his sporting colleagues in the mid-1800s. A Norfolk jacket is generally single-breasted with box pleating at the back for mobility – sometimes, the jacket is belted. It was engineered for comfort when shooting, riding and on the hunt. The design for Norfolk jackets is still popular today for school, military and police uniforms.
Wool coats are a great investment for winter as they offer excellent protection against the cold and the wet. Wool jackets are also a good bet for the spring and autumn, as their insulating properties work both ways, keeping the heat out or in, to keep your body temperature on an even keel.
Other popular types of wool coats and jackets include: the pea coat, a double-breasted coat dating to the 18th century that’s typically worn by sailors; the Eisenhower jacket, a cropped military-style jacket designed by Dwight ‘Ike’ Eisenhower during World War II and introduced in 1943, is still popular with police forces and bikers; and, the hacking jacket, popular with hunt participants, horseback riders and other sports people. Many variants on these traditional wool jackets are made by coat manufacturers all over the world in a wide variety of sizes to suit the family. Wool coats and jackets can be purchased just about anywhere clothing is sold.
© Jackets.org.uk 2008