The majority of modern coats and jackets are waterproof in some way. Some are made from natural materials, such as full-grain leather or wool, with natural water-repellent properties. Others are made from synthetic materials, such as nylon and polyester, which are woven or treated to make water-resistant coats and jackets to suit a host of size and performance requirements.
Some of the first waterproof coats and jackets were made from oilskin – an essentially natural material. Oilskin can be created from any canvas-like material, the material is stretched and coated with an oil, such as linseed oil. Gradually, coat after coat of the oil is applied until the material quite literally has a ‘skin’ of oil on one or both sides. Traditionally, fishermen wore oilskin suits to protect themselves from the harsh, damp environment they work in; many fishing boat crews still wear oilskins today, though there are many other materials available suited for their work. Oilskin coats and jackets have to be tailored carefully to ensure the fabric’s waterproof skin isn’t compromised. Barbour is probably the best-known maker of oilskin, or wax, coats and jackets.
Another traditional method for waterproofing coats and jackets is vulcanising rubber. The process, developed by Charles Mackintosh and Thomas Hancock, who worked together to find an effective method for waterproofing fabrics in the mid 1800s. Their vulcanisation process was awarded a patent in 1843 and the company continues to make waterproofs from their traditional manufacturing base near Glasgow. Classic macs, or raincoats, are made using this rubberised fabric by many leading designers including Gucci and Louis Vuitton to this day.
Modern technology has made the manufacture of waterproof coats and jackets a far simpler affair. Thanks to the advent of synthetic fabrics, mass production facilities and chemical engineering breakthroughs, coats and jackets can be made to suit men, women and children no matter what extremes of weather they’re facing. Arguably, the most widely available modern waterproof material for coats and jackets is GoreTex. GoreTex jackets are available for men, women and children in a variety of styles. The material is made up from a thin porous membrane coated with urethane, is layer is then bonded to a nylon or polyester fabric. GoreTex fabric is featured in coats and jackets made by scores of manufacturers, including Columbia, Nike, North Face and Berghaus.
If you already have a coat or jacket that you would love to wear during the drizzly season but it wasn’t waterproofed by the manufacturer, you can buy a number of different spray-on coatings to achieve a degree of water resistance. These sprays are available from shoe stores and dry cleaners, as well as some outdoor supply shops. The treatments are also useful for providing a touch-up to older waterproof jackets that have been washed a few times, however, you should always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for waterproofing and re-waterproofing your garments – and read the label on your chosen waterproofing agent before applying it to your whole jacket.
© Jackets.org.uk 2008